Venice Diaries

I spent a beautiful week plein air painting in Venice, Italy, with the Leo Marchutz School of Painting and Drawing (which I highly recommend)! I painted my butt off, enjoyed the most splendid views, had lots of gelato, and learned a ton! There’s nothing quite like painting morning and evening, day after day. You start seeing the world differently. Then throw in a group of creatives, wonderful teachers, and the magic of Venice — and suddenly you have a special kind of alchemy!

I kept a diary of my daily adventures, which you can read below. When I get home, I’ll plan a show and collection release for all of my new oil paintings (they’re drying now), but in the meantime you can collect Love Letters from Italy, small studies and sketches from my travels!

Sunday, April 19 — Day 1

I arrived in Venice, around noon. After getting settled at Pensione Seguso, I grabbed a delicious bite to eat at Trattoria ai Cugnai! To stay awake and adjust to the time change, I took my watercolors out to the canal to paint. Now, I’m getting ready for a group walking tour before supper, followed by some much needed sleep!

Monday, April 20 — Day 2

The day started with an introduction to the program and a discussion about color theory. In the afternoon I wandered, got gelato and sat by the canal to paint another little watercolor. Then an evening drawing session, followed by charcuterie and drinks with new friends!

Tuesday, April 21 — Day 3

Today was the first day of oil painting! We took the water bus, called vaporetto, to the Guidecca for the day. I did two paintings, one in the morning of the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute and another of the sunset. It felt so good to break out the easel and get to work!

Wednesday, April 22 — Day 4

I had the best time painting at the Giardini. I chose a tower visible through a window of trees for my first painting. Then I enjoyed a long leisurely lunch overlooking the water with a fellow artist, before my final painting of the day. I ended the day with a landscape featuring a canopy of wisteria!

Thursday, April 23 — Day 5

My alarm went off at 5:15 a.m. and I was up and out to go paint my first sunrise at the Dogana! I brought my watercolors and did studies documenting the progression of the sunrise. As soon as I was finishing up a dolphin popped up to say good morning! Then after a couple of cappuccinos, I was off to paint at the Giudecca again. Followed by a quick lunch and another painting session at the canals!

Friday, April 24 — Day 6

I spent most of the day at a little island called San Giorgio painting the sailboats at the marina and another gorgeous sunset! Painting the sunset with oils is a bit tricky, I spent most of the evening sketching and mixing colors to prepare. Then when the sun starts to set, you have to paint fast!

Saturday, April 25 — Day 7

Saturday I was back at the Giardini. I found a sweet motif of a red bench in the park, framed by trees, with lovely Venetian buildings in the background. So that was my morning session. Then we had a delicious lunch, linguine with fresh clams from the lagoon, at Osteria San Isepo. For the afternoon I set up my easel by the canal because the light was perfection! Then I watched the sunset before splitting a pizza with a friend and called it a night!

Sunday, April 26 — Day 8

Today began with another sunrise painting session at the Dogana. I painted with oils, but didn’t bring my easel, so I just set up on the ground to save time. The dolphin popped up again, just to my right! I decided to stay close to the hotel in the morning, so I could be there when Brantley arrived. So I worked in watercolors near the Accademia Bridge. Then Brantley and I grabbed a quick bite, and met the rest of the painting group at the Guidecca to paint one last sunset!

Monday, April 27 — Day 9

I couldn’t resist painting one more sunrise, and it was my favorite one! Part of the usual painting crew joined in, too, so it was lovely! Then Brantley and I visited the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, where I saw an incredible Grace Hartigan painting that brought me to tears. The rest of the day was spent on the rooftop of the Seguso for a group critique! It was amazing to see all of the work we created over the week and how Venice changed us. We celebrated with one last group dinner in the garden at Agli Alboretti! Now off to bed, because tomorrow Brantley and I are heading to Lake Como!